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Thursday, August 15, 2013

How to Build a Farm-Style Kitchen Table

Farm families have historically been large groups because of the amount of work needed to make a family farm successful. Even without large families, there were lots of hired hands. Mealtimes have these people gathering around a table to eat. Farm kitchens, and their respective tables, historically have been large to accommodate the number of people, and sturdy. These tables have often been handmade from lumber available around the farm. Does this Spark an idea?

Instructions

Cutting

    1

    Set the 1-by-3-inch lumber on the sawhorses. Measure and mark four sections 29 1/4 inches long. Measure and mark two lengths of the remaining 1-by-3-inch lumber 23 3/4 inches long. Cut the sections and set these aside.

    2

    Set the 1-by-4-inch lumber on the sawhorses. Measure and mark four sections 29 1/4 inches long. Cut the sections and set these aside.

    3

    Set the 1-by-6-inch lumber on the sawhorses. Measure and mark two lengths 88 inches. Measure and mark two lengths 23 3/4 inches. Cut the sections and set these aside.

    4

    Set the 2-by-2-inch lumber on the sawhorses. Measure and mark eight sections 23 3/4 inches long. Cut the sections and set these aside.

    5

    Take the eight pieces of lumber measuring 29 1/4 inches; these will become the legs. Measure and mark 5 1/2 inches from the top of each leg. At the other end of the lumber measure and mark in 1 inch from the opposite corner of the leg. Draw a line from the 5 1/2 inch marking down to the 1-inch marking. This will be the line you use to make tapered legs.

    6

    Cut the lumber along the line on each board to create a tapered leg.

Legs and Frame

    7

    Make a set of four legs out of the tapered legs. You need one each of the 1-by-3-inch legs and one each of the 1-by-4-inch legs. Match a 1-by-4 with a 1-by-3.

    8

    Set each pair so the non-tapered edge of a 1-by-3-inch leg sits flush against the side of a 1-by-4-inch leg to form an "L". Make sure the top and bottom of the legs are flush together. Drive a nail through the side of the wider leg into the end of the narrow leg. Do this step with each pair to create the four legs.

    9

    Set up the legs so the 3-inch board makes the end of the leg with the 4-inch board becoming the side. Place one of the long 1-by-6-inch boards against the inside corner at the top of the leg. This is the wider non-tapered end. Put another leg at the other end of the board with the 4-inch board being the side on that end. The longer 1-by-6-inch board becomes the apron for that side of the table. Hammer five nails through the side of the legs into the side of the apron to make it sturdy. Repeat this step for the other two legs and apron to create the two sides of the table.

    10

    Connect the two sides with the shorter 1-by-6-inch boards as the end aprons. Set these up so the ends of the boards butt against the sides of the longer aprons on the inside of the leg corners. Nail five nails through the legs into the sides of these boards. Make sure the tops of the sides are flush with the tops of the legs. Set a level on each corner of the table and adjust the construction as needed to get the table even if needed.

    11

    Measure and mark 10 inches from the top of each leg. Line up one of the remaining 1-by-3-inch boards between these markings at the ends of the table. Hammer four nails through the legs into the sides of these boards. These become the stretchers that keep the table legs from bowing in or out.

Tabletop Assembly

    12

    Measure and mark 9 1/2 inches from the inside corner of one leg along the side of the table. Measure and mark 2 inches from the first mark. Alternate the measurements from the second mark using the 9 1/2-inch measurement first. You should have eight 9 1/2-inch marks with seven 2-inch lengths between them. Mark the same lengths using the same method on the other side of the table.

    13

    Place a 2-by-2-inch post between the two sides within the 2-inch markings. Hammer a nail through the sides of the table into the ends of the post. Repeat this step six more times along the table length. These become the seven under supports for the table top.

    14

    Find the center of the table ends. Mark this position on both ends. Place a 1-by-8-inch board on either side of the marking. Make the boards touch and the ends flush. The boards should overhang the table end by 4 3/8 inches on both ends. Use two screws per board per end to attach them to the frame.

    15

    Place another 1-by-8-inch board along the outer sides of the two center boards. Set up the boards the same way as the first two. Screw the boards into place. Screw into the ends only.

    16

    Flip the entire table over on its top. Minimize any spacing between the boards composing the table top. Pre-drill eight holes along each cross-plank placing two holes per board for the top. Drill and countersink the screws into the holes. This will make the screw heads even with the wood.

    17

    Turn the table upright. Fill in nail holes with wood filler. Sand down the table to finish.

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